Motuo, which means "The Hidden lotus" in Tibetan language, is the final county in China to be connected to the rest of the country by paved road. The 117-km-long Zhamo Highway that connects Bomi to Motuo was put into use in 2013. Why the Zhamo Highway is worthy driving and what the Motuo county looks like? My friend Zhou Mi, also a researcher on trade and economy, has been back from Motuo. I talked to him to introduce a real Motuo.
I: Is the Zhamo Highway easy to drive? Did you run into any problems?
Zhou: We departed from Bomi, then descended into Metuo along the Zhamo Highway. Traffic is regulated—vehicles driving in on even-numbered dates, leaving on odd-numbered dates.
Before reaching the Galongla Tunnel, the road feels like any ordinary highway. After the tunnel, however, heavy rainfall has severely eroded the roadbed. Some sections are under repair, and we were caught in a major traffic jam.
Passing through the tunnel, the road winds down the mountain in sharp switchbacks. The elevation drops dramatically, and the road becomes narrow and steep. It was this very stretch that finally broke Metuo isolation.
I: The Zhamo Highway is famous for the saying, "One mountain, four seasons; 10 miles, different weather." Did you experience that?
Zhou: Absolutely. In three hours, we traveled from glaciers to tropical rainforest. Before entering the Galongla Tunnel, glaciers sparkled in the sunlight. After that, the landscape transformed from conifer forests to broadleaf forests. Banana leaves lined the roadside, waterfalls cascaded down the cliffs, and wildflowers bloomed beneath towering trees. The biodiversity was astonishing. We felt like stepping into the Amazon
I: From planning to completion, the road construction took more than 50 years. Having experienced the highway yourself, what do you think of the project?
Zhou: The project is incredible. First, there was no way to transport heavy machinery, so construction advanced while machinery was brought in bit by bit. Falling rocks are common, especially after rain, blocking traffic from both directions. Rockfalls and fallen trees damage the road surface. During the rainy season, floods wash away the roadbed, causing collapses and severe damage. In winter, snow and ice take their toll as well. The highway had to be rebuilt again and again, and even today it requires constant maintenance.
I: The incredible highway ends the isolation of the Motuo county. What is unique about the town as you see?
Zhou: Motuo and many nearby villages are scattered along both sides of the valley. At sunrise, mist drifts through the mountains, making the town look like a mirage. Land is scarce, so parking space is limited. Many vehicles are seen parking along the roadside.
I: What did you learn about the local culture from talking with residents?
Zhou: Transportation is much easier today, people remain talking about the era of the porters. Before the highway, everything—from daily necessities to refrigerators and washing machines—had to be carried by people or pack animals. They carried over 100 kilograms of local produce on their backs to Bomi and Milin, where they traded for daily necessities before making the long journey home. They crossed mountains for weeks at a time, sleeping outdoors and risking avalanches, landslides, and leeches. It was a true test of endurance and courage.
I: Locals deserve respect. They didn’t leave their homeland, but safeguard China’s border town day by day. Is there any other road leading to Motuo now?
Zhou: Another highway leading to Motuo from another direction has already been completed. It passes through tunnels and pristine forests. The project was designed to minimize its impact on the environment and protect the region's rich biodiversity. It is undergoing evaluation before opening.
I: Since getting to Motuo is difficult, is the cost of living high?
Zhou: Prices are generally higher than elsewhere. However, fuel costs the same as outside the town. Government subsidies help keep transportation and logistics running smoothly, supporting the local economy.
I: There's a saying: "There is only one Metuo in the world, but Metuo holds the whole world." What’s your understanding now?
Zhou: I watched a stage performance called Motuo Qing, which tells the story of ancient hunting traditions, porter culture, and its development. The show ends with that very line. The Zhamo Highway has opened for 13 years, Motuo has transformed from an isolated, closed-off place into one that is connected and thriving. It's a change locals have long hoped for—and one we're fortunate to witness.
Motuo is like a forgotten pearl. It preserves some of the world's most pristine and untouched landscapes. It is truly a place worth visiting.